There are two ways to install an AFR Tuner. Either with minimal loom modification, or not.
The latter requires the unwrapping of the main loom from the fuse box to just behind the engine, and splicing into the relevant
wires, using soldered joints. With this method, Items 5 to 13, in the Parts List below, can be deleted.
The former is the way Nell was wired initially. It requires the creation of cable stubs, to make connections using the standard
connectors. Some of these are difficult to acquire, but the cabling can be restored to almost original quite easily.
Recently, while installing an electric water pump, the wiring was changed to the latter, as it requires much less space,
and with the addition of the epump wiring that space was becoming scarce.
Both #922 & and RS #298 are fitted with ATs, and I believe 1 other. All use the full loom modification method.
Item | Qty | Description | Manufacturer | Part Number | Source | Use |
1 | 1 | AFR Tuner, cables and mounting strips | Motty | AT2.2 | Motty Electronics | modifys the ECU injection times dependant on throttle position, rpm, current AFR and your AFR map |
2 | 1 | wideband lambda sensor | Bosch | 0 258 007 200 | generally available, but try Tech Edge, Motty or Innovate Motorsports | measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust |
3 | 1 | stainless steel collar M18x1.5, 25mm OD, 16mm long shaped to but to a 50mm exhaust pipe | Innovate Motor Sports | 3736 | your local machine shop, Motty or Innovate Motorsports | weld this to your exhaust to mount the lambda sensor. See below for the position. |
4 | 1 | Handlebar switch right hand kill on-off & start | Hi Level | 694605 | Motorcycle Products | replaces existing switch block to enable map switching (re-wiring required) |
5 | 4 | 2 pin female connector & boot | Bosch | 1 287 013 003-000 | generally available, but in Oz: Ashdown-Ingram | to connect to Engine Temp Sensor & injectors |
6 | 4 | 2 pin male connector & boot | Bosch | 1 287 013 002-000 | generally available, but in Oz: Ashdown-Ingram | to connect to the OEM loom: Engine Temp Sensor connector & injector connectors |
7 | 1 | 3 pin female connector & boot | Bosch | 1 237 000 003-000 | rare, but in Oz: Ashdown-Ingram | to connect to the Throttle Position Sensor |
8 | 1 | 3 pin male connector | Tyco/AMP | Housing: 1-0144546-0, (3) Male pins: 0-0142755-1 | extremely rare, unless you want 1,000. I managed to procure samples from Boersig GmbH, in Neckarsulm, Germany. Thomas is an absolute legend. Possibly also available from onlinecomponents.com | to connect to the OEM loom: Throttle Position Sensor connector |
9 | 1 | 3 pin female connector housing | Tyco/AMP | 282087-1 | Farnell 150-423 | connects to speed sensor cable to tap off speed & +12V supply |
10 | 3 | 20-16AWG (0.64-1.3 mm2) crimp socket | Tyco/AMP | 183025-1 | Farnell 151-075 | to suit above |
11 | 1 | 3 pin male connector housing | Tyco/AMP | 282087-1 | Farnell 150-423 | connects to speed sensor cable to tap off speed & +12V supply |
12 | 3 | 20-15AWG (0.64-1.5 mm2) crimp pin | Tyco/AMP | 183024-1 | Farnell 151-040 | to suit above |
13 | 6 | Green wire seals | Tyco/AMP | 281934-4 | Farnell 150-915 | seals the wires in the 2 housings above |
14 | 1 | extraction tool | Molex | 11-03-0044 | Digi-Key WM9918-ND | tool to remove pins from the AT Main plug |
15 | 20 | 24-18AWG (0.2-0.78 mm2) Female Crimp Contact | Molex | 39-00-0207 | DigiKey WM3116CT-ND | to suit AT Main Plug |
16 | 2 m each | 0.75 mm2 Black (2x), Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, White pvc insulated wire | . | . | . | . |
17 | 2 m each | 0.5 mm2 Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Violet, Grey, White, Pink pvc insulated wire | . | . | . | . |
18 | 1 m | 4 mm pvc tubing | ProPower | PVC-4-0-CL | Farnell 130-2785 | to cover the injector & temp sensor wires of the AT loom |
19 | 1 m | 6 mm pvc tubing | ProPower | PVC-6-0-CL | Farnell 130-2785 | to cover the TPS wires to the AT loom |
20 | 1 roll | cloth backed 20 mm wide automotive looming tape | United Partners P/L | N1010 | K&R Car Parts, Seven Hills, NSW | for wrapping the AT loom |
The collar is just a little close too the exhaust mount. The TIG torch very nearly didn't get in close enough. 10mm further upstream would have made the welding task much easier.
The AT will fit in the duck tail, between the fans as shown above, if the fusebox is raised, moved left, or allowed to float
freely. Initially, just lift it off it's clip. The top of the AT metal case should be protected from connecting to the frame by
super gluing a piece of PETE (from a 2 litre juice bottle) to it.
Motty supply 4 pieces of Dual Lock in the AT kit. Clean off the fan & AT housings with isopropyl alcohol, and when dry, stick 2 to
the end of the AT (as shown), then slip it into position. Rotate the part sticking to the fan, so that it follows the curvature of
the fan housing. Next, remove the AT & stick the remaining 2 pieces to it's underside, in a position that will line up with the
right housing.
I raised the fusebox by rotating it's clip through 180o. An extra notch is required though, and the pillion seat will touch it.
Take care when removing the clip. The tips are sprung loaded, and must be squeezed together to allow the clip to be withdrawn.
Now that the clip is remounted, unwrap the looming tape from the wiring to the fan plugs & fusebox, to allow re-looming in a more
appropriate position - later.
Mount the AT, and move the diagnostics plug to the position shown. Also move the diode plug & assembly back and across, to make room
for the AT coms plug. I have an accessories power supply jack that I fitted a while back (to charge my phone & gps receiver), which
had to be re-positioned as well.
It's now time to remove the battery and the ECU.