You've taken the measurements and done the calculations on the previous page, and found, to your horror, that you have only 1 or 2 mm of travel left. Or worse, there's none left, and you've noticed the engine is noisier than you think it should be. (Or worst, you haven't noticed!)

What now?

1. Removing the aluminium washer will gain 1.5 mm. It won't leak oil, but Loctite 243 should be used to keep the nut from shaking loose.
2. You could stretch the spring, but it's unlikely you can do this without distorting it. Personally, I wouldn't, unless desperate.
3. Order another spring. One preferably off an 1130, that's 75 mm long. The Part Number is R300018005000. Then wait for it to arrive.
4. Make a new Tensioner Bolt.

Tensioner Diagram	Modified Tensioner Bolt

From the tensioner diagram, you'll notice that the existing bolt doesn't extend the full depth of the thread in the tensioner body. From memory, that depth is 10 mm. This extra thread can be used to move the head of the spring closer to the cam chain.

1. Start with a commercial M8 x 1.0 hex head set screw, that's > 10mm long. It'll be threaded to the base of the head.
2. Cut & file to 9.7 mm long.
3. Set into the 3 jaw chuck of a lathe, so that the centre of the bolt is near the centre of the lathe centre, & runs true.
4. Centre drill, then follow with a 5 mm drill, to a depth of 3.4mm to the shoulder, as shown above.

When installing a new cam chain, the minimum operating depth of the spring should be confirmed, under the new tensioner bolt. If the minimum operating depth of the spring is larger than the plunger depth, then the spring will bottom out, and force the plunger to move, placing undue stress on the new cam chain.